August 3, 2009

A Town Reborn

7/31
After a good night's sleep and an average breakfast eaten to the relentless obsessive rantings of Fox News, we headed East again. Our destination: Slidell, LA.
Note to Bobby Jindal: Before you refused the stimulus funds someone should have forced you to drive for a week on I 10 through Baton Rouge. Your infrastructure stinks. You may think it's okay and doesn't need any improvement, but this was the second time it took us over an hour to get through this relatively small city. The first time was last year on a Sunday morning (?). What a mess.
We arrived in Slidell after 6. This whole town is new post Katrina. The hotel was very nice, although they could have stored meat in the lobby and breakfast area, and it would have kept for days. The service was excellent, however, and check in was lightning fast. Impressive for a Best Western. We asked for a recommendation of a Cajun restaurant nearby. Copeland's, we were told, was good and a mile down the road.
Copeland's is a Chili's clone with a Louisiana slant. On Friday night it was packed, and we were placed (with an apology from the hostess) next to a huge group near the bar. It was LOUD in there. The food was good, and the service was fine. Nothing to shout or grouse about.
We would arrive home late the next afternoon. Our "adventure" for this summer over. As always there were good and bad experiences, and we learned a little bit more about New Mexico, our own preferences, and the places between us and them. Can't wait to see the pictures.

The Trek Home Begins

7/30
We started out in the morning with the intent to get to Kerrville by 5. This was not going to happen. Our fault, really. We stopped at a supermarket in Deming to suss out the ethnic food aisle for local Mexican. We left with two kinds of mole concentrate and green chili sauce (two different types). Glen also wanted to stop at a Mexican blanket outlet store in El Paso, which turned out to be a waste of time. Add to that rest stops, lunch, and gas refills (one in Ozona that involved conning us into driving all through town to the other side), and we arrived at the Hampton Inn, which was as always more than acceptable.
Dinner proved a thorny problem. It was later than usual, and we didn't want to hurry. There was a restaurant across the way in another hotel, but it was a bit overdone in decoration and had no prices on their menu. Come on! Even Bern's in Tampa has prices. Supercilious, we decided and EMPTY. We ended up at Cracker Barrel. The other end of the spectrum, but the food was good. The service was not, and the waitress (about 16) apologized with a long and convoluted story about dance camp and long hours. All this was said with no eye contact whatsoever on her part. I was tempted to tell her this was all a poor excuse, but we both cut her a break and didn't give her a hard time. We did leave her a small tip, but we didn't want the kid to lose her job, so we did not complain.

On the Catwalk

7/29
What day is it anyway? What did we do today? If that isn't a sign it's about time to call it quits, I don't know what is.
We drove from Socorro to the Catwalk, which is a mile hike in the Gila. That took until after lunch. The hike took about a half hour. Glen ventured on to one of the "difficult" trails (insisting it was the way down - it wasn't) but when my heart started beating double time just at the thought of "18-21 inch unpaved paths with no guardrails" I said I was going back. I told him to go ahead and I'd wait for him. My heart slowed back down as soon as I turned around. He wasn't far behind because he soon realized it was NOT the way down.
We had considered staying in Glenwood but didn't make reservations without eyeballing the place we had in mind. Well, it looked fine but it was full. Okay then.....on to Silver City.
We are now at the Holiday Inn Express, which is apparently the only hotel in this town up to our (apparently) high standards. It's a great place. Where to eat, though? Last trip we ate at Jalisco's downtown.
There was some vaguely remembered problem with Jalisco's, but we decided to give it another go because it might be our last chance for Mexican. As soon as we walked in, we remembered that last time it had been awfully hectic. It was again. Even in Albuquerque we didn't experience such a mid-week crowd. Being two helped, though, and we were seated without too long a wait. The waitress started out 'great guns' with quick courteous service and attentiveness we thought boded well. Unfortunately, her attention span was a bit short because our food arrived after a long wait, and it was not really hot. We suspect she forgot us in the rush to wait on a large party next to us. The food was okay. Not great. We took the leftovers for lunch since it was getting late, and although Glen was still hungry, I suggested it was best not to eat too much. The tip reflected our dismay.
Before turning in we firmed up reservations for the next two nights, ending with our arrival back home late on Saturday. On to Kerrville, TX, in the morning.

July 28, 2009

A Long Day

7/28
Pooped!
We left Albuquerque at 8 and headed for Acoma Pueblo. We thought we were arriving too late for the first tour, but we were able to sign up and even see part of the museum before the tour bus left. Acoma's cultural center is down in town, and that is where most people live. However, the pueblo, known as Sky City, is still inhabited and used for ceremonies and celebrations. There is no plumbing or electricity, but this does not seem to phase those who live there 24/7. It was our second time touring, so we were prepared. We came with cash, and we got a camera permit. We think the photos came out pretty good, but I won't be doing a web album tonight.
After the tour ended we stayed behind with a "shopping guide" (they don't want people wandering around on their own) and bought a couple of pots. Then we walked down the 350 foot high mesa and back to the cultural center. The stone steps were pretty steep in places, but there were hand holds, and we managed pretty well.
We had lunch, which was leftovers from the night before (yum), but Acoma did have a cafe, and we could have eaten there.
Afterwards, we headed to Socorro. Socorro is a nice little town with a technical college and a great view. We checked into the Best Western. Hol. Inn Express was full. There is a convention of First Responders in town. Guess this is a pretty safe place tonight. :) The room is nice with a small "kitchen." I just hope the First Responders don't get up too early in the morning, because a number of them are pretty big, healthy looking young men, and we may have to fight for our food. Just kidding......kind of.
Dinner was a short walk to the Socorro Springs Brewing Co. This place makes great burgers. I had a chili burger. Glen had a buffalo burger. Both were delicious and very big!
Hopefully, the thunderstorms we had earlier are done, and we will have a quiet restful night. We are taking a scenic route to Glenwood in the Gila National Forest tomorrow morning.

A Long Day

7/28
Pooped!
We left Albuquerque at 8 and headed for Acoma Pueblo. We thought we were arriving too late for the first tour, but we were able to sign up and even see part of the museum before the tour bus left. Acoma's cultural center is down in town, and that is where most people live. However, the pueblo, known as Sky City, is still inhabited and used for ceremonies and celebrations. There is no plumbing or electricity, but this does not seem to phase those who live there 24/7. It was our second time touring, so we were prepared. We came with cash, and we got a camera permit. We think the photos came out pretty good, but I won't be doing a web album tonight.
After the tour ended we stayed behind with a "shopping guide" (they don't want people wandering around on their own) and bought a couple of pots. Then we walked down the 350 foot high mesa and back to the cultural center. The stone steps were pretty steep in places, but there were hand holds, and we managed pretty well.
We had lunch, which was leftovers from the night before (yum), but Acoma did have a cafe, and we could have eaten there.
Afterwards, we headed to Socorro. Socorro is a nice little town with a technical college and a great view. We checked into the Best Western. Hol. Inn Express was full. There is a convention of First Responders in town. Guess this is a pretty safe place tonight. :) The room is nice with a small "kitchen." I just hope the First Responders don't get up too early in the morning, because a number of them are pretty big, healthy looking young men, and we may have to fight for our food. Just kidding......kind of.
Dinner was a short walk to the Socorro Springs Brewing Co. This place makes great burgers. I had a chili burger. Glen had a buffalo burger. Both were delicious and very big!
Hopefully, the thunderstorms we had earlier are done, and we will have a quiet restful night. We are taking a scenic route to Glenwood in the Gila National Forest tomorrow morning.

A Long Day

7/28
Pooped!
We left Albuquerque at 8 and headed for Acoma Pueblo. We thought we were arriving too late for the first tour, but we were able to sign up and even see part of the museum before the tour bus left. Acoma's cultural center is down in town, and that is where most people live. However, the pueblo, known as Sky City, is still inhabited and used for ceremonies and celebrations. There is no plumbing or electricity, but this does not seem to phase those who live there 24/7. It was our second time touring, so we were prepared. We came with cash, and we got a camera permit. We think the photos came out pretty good, but I won't be doing a web album tonight.
After the tour ended we stayed behind with a "shopping guide" (they don't want people wandering around on their own) and bought a couple of pots. Then we walked down the 350 foot high mesa and back to the cultural center. The stone steps were pretty steep in places, but there were hand holds, and we managed pretty well.
We had lunch, which was leftovers from the night before (yum), but Acoma did have a cafe, and we could have eaten there.
Afterwards, we headed to Socorro. Socorro is a nice little town with a technical college and a great view. We checked into the Best Western. Hol. Inn Express was full. There is a convention of First Responders in town. Guess this is a pretty safe place tonight. :) The room is nice with a small "kitchen." I just hope the First Responders don't get up too early in the morning, because a number of them are pretty big, healthy looking young men, and we may have to fight for our food. Just kidding......kind of.
Dinner was a short walk to the Socorro Springs Brewing Co. This place makes great burgers. I had a chili burger. Glen had a buffalo burger. Both were delicious and very big!
Hopefully, the thunderstorms we had earlier are done, and we will have a quiet restful night. We are taking a scenic route to Glenwood in the Gila National Forest tomorrow morning.

July 27, 2009

A Day Spent with Native American Culture

7/27
We slept in this morning since our first stop, the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, doesn't open until 9. We spent the entire morning there. We hadn't been to the Museum half in years, and we saw two great short films. One was about Maria Martinez who is a very well known San Ildefonso potter,and it took you through the entire process of making those wonderful pots.
Our leftovers from La Hacienda was our lunch. We decided mine was better on reheat, but both (and a sopapilla) made a great lunch. Laundry had to be done too. A few hours of enforced relaxation.
Afterwards we headed to the Turquoise Museum where we learned that we knew nothing about turquoise. It actually made us more than a little paranoid about purchasing turquoise ever again. Apparently, it is very difficult for the untrained eye to see the differences, and you really have to trust that people are being honest. There were pointers on how to insure that you are getting the natural stuff, but it really does seem more like a crap shoot than anything else.
Before going back to the hotel, I wanted to stop and visit Alvin, who made my beautiful hammered silver earrings (purchased last summer). He was there and gave me a great deal on another pair of round earrings. We also visited Curtis, who made my silver bracelet. He didn't have much left, so we just chatted. He remarked on how humid it has been. We asked what "humid" is, and he said 60%. It is higher than that in our house when we have the a/c going full blast.
Dinner was unbelievable! We returned to the IPCC and ate at Pueblo Harvest. This place was fabulous. It was gourmet Mexican with a definite Native American twist. My chiles relleno were mouth-watering, and we both left with enough for another great meal tomorrow (lunch) after we visit Acoma.

Once Again: Albuquerque

7/26
The first order of business was breakfast. We'd slept fairly well with only one mild interruption at about 1 when people came home from the bike festivities. I guess some would say if we weren't such old biddies, we'd have been out with them. The breakfast area was small and located in the lobby. The eggs were cold. The fresh waffles were underdone. This is the place they raved about on Trip Advisor? Hmmm...
We headed downtown to try for some photos of the many 19th century buildings. I had some trouble finding a way to photograph things without 100s of bikes parked outside, but I hope I managed a few decent shots.
From there we drove to the National Wildlife Refuge, but as many of these are, it was simply a quiet place for birds to enjoy life and not really scenic in the usual sense of the word. So we headed west to Pecos and the Pecos Notional Historical Park.
We arrived just in time for the 10 a.m. tour. These ruins are quite estensive since 12 pueblos lived together here at one time. The Ranger was informative, and the ruins and surrounding landscape wonderful. We stayed to chat with another Ranger and to have lunch at the picnic area before heading to Albuquerque.
This place always feels like coming home to me. I am comfortable here now. We couldn't check in to our usual hotel, so we headed to the Plaza, where we checked out the Native jewelry spread out on blankets down one side of the Plaza. Glen got a silver bracelet, and the man from whom he purchased it asked about my earrings, which I'd gotten at the Plaza last year. It turned out that he recognized the artist who had won a prize at a large fair in Santa Fe last August. I asked if he was going to be around. Tomorrow! I'll be back to see what he's making this year. I also asked about an elderly gentlement from the Santo Domingo Pueblo we see ever visit. His nephew was at the blanket 'next door' and said he was home preparing for a corn celebration, and we wouldn't be seeing him this time around. I asked how he was doing, and ended up having a pleasant conversation.
Dinner was wonderful. We ate at La Hacienda, which is located directly on the Plaza. I had enchiladas done the traditional New Mexican way, with blue corn tortillas and a fried egg on top. Dinner was served with sopapillas for afterwards. We saved enough to have it for lunch today. This is the kind of Mexican food I can eat every day with joy.
Afterwards we started to stroll around the Plaza to see what was happening there. It was Sunday, so we did not expect much and were surprised and delighted to find Argentinian tango music playing and couples dancing in the gazebo. And I do mean Dancing the Tango. We really enjoyed watching them! Some were very professional and their choreography was fascinating to watch.

July 25, 2009

Viva, Las Vegas!

7/25
After a good, hot breakfast we packed the car and headed for Three Rivers.
After a pleasant exchange with the volunteer at the entrance to Three Rivers Petroglyph Park (she was from NY, and she and her husband lived there full time in their RV), we set off for the mile and a half loop. While it was uphill for much of the way, it was not terribly strenuous, and the petroglyphs were interesting, and the view was wonderful from up there. We were between the Sacramento and the San Andres Mtns. It was quite a vista. We learned that the bushes we passed sporting either tiny white fluff balls or pretty little yellow blooms was the creosote bush, also known as chapperal.
From there we headed to Las Vegas along what has to be the most boring road in New Mexico. Although we were at an elevation of close to 9,000 feet at times, it was a plateau. We were surrounded by little more than pasture and cattle for miles upon miles, endless miles......... Ugh. There wasn't even a picnic table for pulling over to have lunch. We settled for what looked to be a largely unused back gate to someone's ranch.
Arriving in Las Vegas we were horrified to discover it is Bike Week! No wonder there were only a few rooms left at the hotel! The entire Plaza was roped off to cars and literally overflowing with bikes and bikers. What made this even more disappointing to someone like me who loves taking photos is the fact that the entire downtown seemed to consist of nothing but 19th century buildings just begging to be photographed. I had to content myself with a few photos of the train depot and adjacent La Castenada Hotel (a Fred Harvey hotel). The depot is still in operation, but the hotel was in disrepair. It still exudes charm, however.
We stopped at the Rough Riders Museum for about 15 minutes. They had some interesting Pueblo artifacts, as well as early Americana.
Our hotel is at the end of the line for Las Vegas, but it seemed to still be bursting with bikes. Hopefully, we can get a good night's sleep. The room itself is very spacious and modern, comfortable and clean. We suspect most guests will not be rising as early as we do, and the breakfast room will not be hectic. Fingers crossed on that account.
Dinner was once again a disappointment. Pino's Family Restaurant was within walking distance, but the positives ended there. The food was blah, and the place smelled of ammonia. Wait. It was cheap. Two positives.
Tomorrow we plan to visit Pecos National Historical Park, which is on the road to Santa Fe. We still haven't decided if we want to stay another night in Las Vegas (the bikers go bye bye tomorrow), or head elsewhere (Santa Fe? Albuquerque?).

Billy the Kid Was Here

7/24
Roswell was our first stop this morning. The only real reason for visiting was to placate those who keep asking why we haven't gone... like our daughter, for example. We were not impressed. We took a few photos for her and were gone by 9:30 a.m.
We decided to veer from the road to Alamogordo and visit the Lincoln State Monument which is essentially the entire town of Lincoln. "The Lincoln Wars" between two merchants in this town led to many murders, the failure of a few sheriffs, and the notorious trial and escape of Billy the Kid. Everything in the town is fairly well preserved, and we spent a couple of interesting hours touring all the buildings.
Afterwards, we continued through to Ruidoso, which was (in our opinions) the height of touristmania. There was a long main drag lined on both sides with little cafes, touristy shops, curio shops, etc. We were glad we had chosen Alamogordo for the night.
The road to Alamorgordo was very scenic, espcially around Tularosa where you were suddenly presented with White Sands against the mountain backdrop, looking for all the world like a mirage. We stopped at a pistachio plantation's gift shop and sampled some of their goods. A pleasant drive. This area is also known for pecans and wine.
Our hotel (a Holiday Inn Express once again) was a pleasant surprise. Although it sits in the middle of a commercial/suburban area, the view from our room was of the Sacramento Mountains. There were jackrabbits exploring in the brush below our window.
Dinner was Mexican (Margo's) but unexceptional. It is apparent that truly good Mexican food is not easy for us to find in this part of the state.
It has been decided that we should head to a different part of the state tomorrow after visiting Three Rivers Petroglyphs about an hour north of town. We will continue to Las Vegas. Because it will be a Saturday we reserved a room at the BW Montezuma, where they had only a few rooms remaining. We are hoping it lives up to its Trip Advisor reputation as an extraordinary bargain and the jewel in Best Western's Gold Crown.
We slept with the window open and the a/c off for the first time and slept well.

July 24, 2009

Carlsbad Caverns and Artesia

7/23

We decided to drive directly to Carlsbad in the morning. "First thing," of course, turned out to be closer to 10.
The Desert Zoo just outside of town was excellent. It was a real bargain at $5 each, and just about every species
was represented. We also had an opportunity to see a botanical garden with an amazing display of the flora native
to New Mexico. We had lunch in the picnic area there.
Afterwards, we drove around town and decided we really didn't want to stay in this town. Fast food restaurants and
high priced hotels (relative to amenities) sold us on the idea of driving on toe Artesia after visiting the Caverns.
Being a mile underground did not bother me as much as I feared it would. The cavern was enormous/huge and beyond
any reference. I only wish my photographic expertise had been equal to the experience. I can't say for certain
until I examine them more closely, but I believe the results were somewhere south of mediocre.
Artesia was interesting. It is an oil town, and as we have found with small oil towns, this was a truly pleasant
little place. I guess the companies have to make the places as palatable as possible so they will be allowed full
rein to rape the earth at will. I know, not fair and entirely biased. Moving on, it had a great little downtown
area. We had dinner at the Wellhead Brewery right on Main Street. The hotel itself was comfortable and quiet in
that unremarkable way of the Holiday Inn Express. It works for us. Who needs quaint when all you want is to lie
down on a clean bed and sleep through the night?